Thanks Peter but I am good at this time (will not forget the offer though). It was an interesting visit, the young bloke who thought SCA was unstoppable and could source every Ford hose firstly told me that the engine number I offered was the VIN (which it is not) then ended up contacting the SCA hose "guru" who suggested that I use two lengths of hose and have a transition piece made (which is an alternate I know I can go to).

_________________
Brian Mackenzie
ex-Shipwright Instructor
Oct '88 to Dec '93 (NIRIMBA) before and beyond

Had to buy a little grit blaster for some work on a number of small items (mates grit blasting room will be used for any bigger stuff). Just looking at the directions that came with the grit blaster - have never seen this written before:

"This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given the supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety.
Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance".

Well, I won't be playing with the appliance - much

Toots happened to see it and immediately suggested that she could use it for some of her frosted glass working. Immediately I said yes because I now have a reason for its purchase outside the use on the truck...........

_________________
Brian Mackenzie
ex-Shipwright Instructor
Oct '88 to Dec '93 (NIRIMBA) before and beyond

Have you talked the people at the NSW Fire Museum at Penrith, they have a number of old fire tenders there.


Bruce D

_________________
Bruce Downes
Ex-AMTL / LSETP3
2nd Muppet Intake
Jan 73 to Jan 94
Nirimba, Duchess, Kuttabul, Stalwart, Leeuwin, Stirling, Vampire, Stirling, Waratah, Adelaide, Platypus, Adelaide, Sydney, Platypus, Adelaide, Cairns, Melbourne

Have been to the Museum at Fire at Penrith. They do have a broad range of units but nothing like this one. The Thornycroft Register believed, at first, that this was a fairly common build until they realised that the Mk 5s (that they were thinking of), have the Rolls Royce B80 engine (common in Dennis fire engines), whilst this has either an Austin or Rolls Royce B40 4 cylinder engine engine. There is a similar unit in the RAF Firefighting Museum collection in the UK (though with a minor difference in the rear cupboards). It would seem that these are a design built particularly for the Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm (hence RAN Fleet Air Arm) in the early 50s.

_________________
Brian Mackenzie
ex-Shipwright Instructor
Oct '88 to Dec '93 (NIRIMBA) before and beyond

I have a handheld sand blaster. I used to do bar room/man cave mirrors for people. Holden/Bundy/Football etc. I started cutting out the designs (on the back of the mirror) by hand with a scalpel. I used to use an extra wide heavy duty masking tape used in the vehicle body work industry.

Then I had a mate who was a sign maker that used to cut the designs on a computer out of vinyl that he used for sign works. I experimented with different vinyls until I cam up with one that was durable enough. Then I painted in colours into the etched patch on the back of mirrors.

Made a few quid whilst I was out of work/low paid shit work.

_________________
Darryl Mann
R146320
Ex-LSRP
GE58 HMAS Cerberus
July 1989- July 1995
HMAS Watson, HMAS Brisbane, HMAS Kuttabul(FIMA-SH), HMAS Watson

Okay, I need to draw on the specialist technical service onsite who can explain, in simple English, what the reply meant (I am a little confused). It was my understanding that it is not uncommon to see a 12 volt pump used on a 24 volt system as long as it has the capacitor/condenser fitted (basically everything else on the vehicle running on 24 volts except the fuel pump).

I said:
I have removed the electric fuel pump from the truck and it is an SU, 12 volt LCS type. It is marked as a 12 volt pump however, it has a capacitor fitted (I believe to work to the 24 volt system on the truck).
Note - I used the word "capacitor" in my correspondence (which may be wrong) whilst the reply refers to condenser - is this the same thing?

Regarding their reply below, is the perception correct that the pump is okay as long as I use the capacitor/condenser that was on it (my mindset - it was on the truck so should be good to go back on the truck)? It would seem that they look at the pump as being central to a 24 volt system (needing a 24 volt coil) whilst (it appears to me) the pump operates at 12 volts ("isolated" from the 24 volt system).


They replied:

The fuel pump would need to have been built with a 24V coil and the current LCS pumps we make are for 12V usage.
In the overhaul kit the condenser has been superceded by a supressor which is the CZX 1004. This is included in the EPK 805 however will not be suitable for a 24V truck. You could try to use your old condenser if it still works.

I would be ever so grateful for advice.

To date:

I am just doing a little at a time. I removed the bronze/brass updraft carby on the trucks engine and cleaned it - apart from the fuel filter the pump is the next item back towards the tank that had to be checked. I have manually turned the engine over on the crank handle I made (which is promising).

The Ford sidevalve V8 pump engine remains "seized" at this time. I have poured diesel down the pots (and will use more). I took the Holley 94 carby and the AC fuel pump off and overhauled and refitted both.

The drivers door is due to go into colour shortly, then will be reassembled so I can then start on the front passengers door.

_________________
Brian Mackenzie
ex-Shipwright Instructor
Oct '88 to Dec '93 (NIRIMBA) before and beyond

Hi Brian,
I would hazard a guess that the fuel pump would have been connected via a relay, operated by the ignition key, connected across the lower battery in the 24 volt system, the condensor's purpose would have been mainly to suppress any radio interference generated by its coil. This probably would have resulted in battery failures over time, I have included a link to a battery charge equalizer article which will explain it better than I can, needless to say if you wire the fuel pump via an ignition switch operated relay using this it should work well.

http://all-about-lead-acid-batteries.capnfatz.com/all-about-lead-acid-batteries/lead-acid-battery-management/how-battery-equalizers-work/

_________________
Ray Lawrence (Boris)
R95904
Ex-POETC3
18th JRTE Rhodes
Dec 1966 - Dec 1986
Leeuwin, Diamantina, Cerberusx4, Harmanx4, Waterhen, Barricade, Lae, Tarangau, Melbourne, Buccaneer, Coonawarrax3, Stuart, Swan, Adroit, Perth, Vampire.

Don't judge each day by the harvest you reap but by the seeds that you plant. ~Robert Louis Stevenson

Thanks Ray. The wiring system is mostly intact so, when I next get the chance, I will trace the wiring back from the pump to (hopefully) confirm. Means that I can order the overhaul kit and not be too concerned about the capacitor/condenser fit or consideration for a 24 volt pump. I think the "ignition key" would be the knife switch on the passengers side of the engine case.

_________________
Brian Mackenzie
ex-Shipwright Instructor
Oct '88 to Dec '93 (NIRIMBA) before and beyond

Brian, there really should not be a naked knife switch in a vehicle. It could be an isolation switch to disconnect the batteries when not in use. I suggest mapping the wiring, just the basic stuff to start, such as ignition, battery charging, and lights. The rest can be sorted out once the main stuff is done.
The battery equalizer is a damn good investment. Check out whether the light are 24V or 12V. Read the globes.
Have you got the beast at your place in Schoefields?

_________________
Gordon Robertson
ex-CPOETC
R42793
15th MOBI Intake
July63 to March74
Nirimba, Sydney III, Collingwood(UK), WSTG(UK), Lonsdale, Swan, Cerberus, Kuttabul, Harman, Kuttabul(RANTAU)

Have you got the beast at your place in Schofields?
No, it is out in the country (I just bring bits home to work on).

There really should not be a naked knife switch in a vehicle.
I don't disagree but there is - I would agree that it is probably an isolation switch for the batteries.

I suggest mapping the wiring, just the basic stuff to start, such as ignition, battery charging, and lights.
Totally support the suggestion - it is on the "to do" list, comes down to making more time on the truck along with all our other commitments. It is always going to be a gradual restoration.

It was always going to be a gradual restoration. Each item that I take off the truck and bring back to Sydney gets worked on, it is just finding the information on the correct item and endeavouring to source parts.

The battery equalizer is a damn good investment.
Could not agree more - I have downloaded the article and response from Ray. The battery equalizer is now on my "good to have" list.

Check out whether the light are 24V or 12V. Read the globes.
The intent is to check the wiring and fittings against the wiring diagram that was supplied by the Thornycroft Register (they supplied a manual on a chassis from that period - it can only be a guide).

I checked out the 12 volt and 24 volt schematics in the manual that was supplied - yep, as a basic guide better than nothing, apart from the fact that the 24 volt system schematic relates to an 8 cylinder engine fit. Well, back to a closer look at the truck to see what it actually has......

_________________
Brian Mackenzie
ex-Shipwright Instructor
Oct '88 to Dec '93 (NIRIMBA) before and beyond